Breakfast fans rewarded at this country hideaway
Hours: Sat. and Sun., 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.; Wed. through Fri., 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Major credit cards accepted
Accessible to the handicapped
Scotch Pine Farm in scenic Pepperell isn't the easiest place to find, but its location well off the beaten path is half its charm.
Still, sometimes it doesn't seem secluded enough. Word has gotten out about this unusual little establishment -- a combination restaurant and cheerful Scottish shop selling woolens, knickknacks, and other goods -- and weekend morning waits of 20 to 30 minutes or more are not uncommon.
Unless you're having an unusually early or late breakfast, you'd be wise to bring a newspaper or book to occupy yourself, or expect to browse the kilts and canned haggis while waiting for a table to open up.
Substantial country breakfasts are Scotch Pine Farm's specialty. The entrees are filling and well priced for such hearty portions. Typical is the Scotch Pine special ($7.50), which loads up several plates with two pancakes or French toast, two eggs cooked any way, two slices of smoky bacon, a hefty ball of sausage, four slices of toast, fried potatoes, and fried apples.
The Scotch Pine Farm special omelet ($6.50) features corned beef alongside onions, peppers, and Monterey Jack cheese. I seldom eat beef, and don't recall ever having had it in an omelet, but found this dish unexpectedly tasty, if a tad salty. The omelet was filling without being too heavy; generously accompanied by fried potato wedges, baked beans, fried apples, and a sausage ball, it made a very satisfying meal.
Country eggs benedict ($6.95), a special one day, is weekend-morning comfort food at its best. It's hard to go wrong with airy poached eggs over sausage and an English muffin, all topped with sausage-flecked gravy. The ensemble came together flavorfully.
The distinctive sides that come with most meals are as enjoyable as the main courses themselves. The fried apples ($1.95 as a side) are cooked midway to the point of applesauce, but retain a degree of texture and fresh apple flavor not ordinarily experienced in that soft-food mainstay. The unusual sausage balls ($2.50 as a side), the size of large meatballs, are hearty and tasty.
Finally, true to Scotch Pine Farm's Scottish heritage, lemon curd is available upon request to spread on toast or other pastries. Smooth and lemony-tart, it wins hands-down over jelly or maple syrup in my book.
After being sold about a year and half ago, Scotch Pine Farm is now operated by the catering company Chef on Wheels. The new ownership has brought some changes, such as a period when dinner was offered a few nights a week, and the restaurant's closure for the season this past summer.
But hearty breakfasts remain a constant, accompanied now by lunch offerings three days a week. I didn't get the chance to try lunch at Scotch Pine Farm, served only Wednesday through Friday; judging from the menu, midday meal choices include a variety of sandwiches and other light fare.
The restaurant's d ecor, freshened nicely by owner Mike Blood, is bright, homey, and comfortable. Rough-hewn wood walls adorned with farming implements, vintage signs, and stenciling create a warm, welcoming feel in the dining area, which holds only about 15 tables. The building's exterior has also been upgraded handsomely. The farm can be accessed from either Elm or Shirley street; the Elm entrance is preferable, because access from Shirley entails navigating a rough, narrow gravel lane.
Occasionally decked out in kilts, the youthful waitstaff provides quick and reasonably attentive service. My one quibble is that my coffee mug was seldom refilled, even when I badgered my server. On one visit I asked three times for a refill that never came, diminishing my enjoyment of an otherwise wonderful leisurely Sunday morning meal.
Especially if you travel to Scotch Pine Farm with children, make sure to pay homage after your meal to the huge Scottish longhorn that resides in a pen just downhill from the restaurant. Good-natured and adorably shaggy and orange, it's a must-see for the under-10 crowd .
STEVE BRADT
